Touching Eternity, Just For Fun


Touching Eternity, Just For Fun

The peak moments I found in surfing are almost identical to those I find in writing and even sometimes when going for a bike ride. There are moments when you lose yourself, time stands still, and you're more alive and in tune than you ever thought possible. It's these "gone" moments that I crave. The first time I remember feeling this was when I lived on the island of Maui and surfing a spot called "Lanes."

The waves were well overhead and the swell was growing with each new set. I dropped in on a left-hander (right foot forward and facing the wave) and was swallowed entirely by water. I slowly moved back into this blue vortex, my hands extended out to either side of me, and, at some point, lost all consciousness of everything. The wave spit me out a few moments later and I was back to reality.

Some say the cause of is this just a rush of adrenaline, but I believe it's more than that. It's a moment when time and space seem to have no end and no beginning. It's as if you've become one with eternity and are connected so powerfully to your present-ness in the world that all else ceases to exist. You are free from your earth-bound self and are, again, literally, in the flow; that indefinable, most times elusive, connectedness that we all wish we could inhabit forever.

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