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Big Wednesday, 2

Chapter One

Winter Swell, 1993

Chapter One


1. Bear shaping on the Pier

2. Bear at Jack's party

3. Bear's marriage

4. Bear's surf shop with Matt

5. Bear as a rubbish man

6. Present day. Bear in a hospital hospital bed.

Matt stood by the window on the third story of the hospital. The ocean was barely discernible from this distance but the presence of abundant whitewater made it clear there was a big swell.

“How’s the swell,” Bear asked weakly, his hair now salt and pepper and deep crow’s feet around his eyes.

“It’s good Bear.”

“Did you call them Matt?”

“I did Bear… They’ll make it, they always do, friends show up for friends.”

“Thank you. Good to know… good to know, and the swell, good swell… I'll surf it in my mind and remember... Point Surf at Makaha 1958, 20 feet...

And that day in ’78 when you all distinguished yourselves as the best of the best.”

“Yeah, even with Lopez.”

“How’s Peggy?

“She’s practically running this place now Bear. She’ll be in soon. She's been here now for over 20 years.”

“And your little girl... Melissa?”

“She’s a surf instructor now down at the point. I just hope she uses her degree some time.”

“Matt I…”

“Just take it easy Bear. How about some water?"

"Rather have some wine... but yeah, ok, ok... how bout the pool business?’

“I’ve got a couple of surf rats working for me now. They’re good when it’s flat, but, you know, like Waxer, with you.”

“You remember Bear, 67, the shop... and then the war.”

“He worked hard when it was flat. Waxer. My mind isn’t working like it did. When he wasn’t taking breaks to surf.”

“Matt, did you call them.”

“Yeah Bear. They’ll be here.’”They’ll be here Bear.”

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